The modern cosmetology are widely using different kinds of acids. They are often used in salons include the composition of the professional cosmetics, including creams, lotions and tonics for home use.
Acids are natural components of skin and are involved in the processes of cell metabolism and gas exchange. The reduction of the concentration of autologous acids with the years disrupts the normal cell activity and is one of the factors of aging. Professional treatments and home care make up for their loss and support required concentration of the desired products. In this case, often it comes to using the alpha or beta hydroacids.
Carboxylic acids in cosmetics
The group of carboxylic acids includes a wide range of not very acidic substances, in combination with the contents in its composition carboxyl groups. Due to the different properties and characteristics many of them have been successfully used in aesthetic medicine and cosmetic products.
|The types of acids||Example||Properties||Application|
|Emulsifiers, stabilizers||On the basis of these acids creates a large number of varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in cosmetics as stabilizers for emulsions.|
|Compensate for the lack of epidermal lidido and strengthening of the epidermal barrier. Create a protective film, to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Are antioxidants.||Included in the day and night creams, cleansing milk for cleansing the skin.|
For dairy products
|Eliminate hyperkeratosis, creation of conditions for improvement of the skin moisture. Stimulates the production of ceramides, collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.||In concentrations up to 10% are used in cosmetic products: cream, lotion, tonic , including home care. In high concentrations are applied only in showroom conditions for exfoliations' and superficial peels.|
|Beta hydroacids(VNA-acid)||Salicylic||Exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces sebum production, removes impurities from the pores. Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory effect.||Used for peelings: alone as an exfoliant or as a basis for decision-medio peels - retinoic or Gessner. Included in creams, lotions, tonics for oily and problematic skin.|
|Polyhydroxylated (RNA)||Gluconic acid||Has a high molecular weight, has a more gentle effect, without causing irritation. Prevents aging, stimulates the production of elastin, increases skin protective properties. Blocks up to 50 percent of UV radiation.||Involved in the anti-aging program for skin care, with high sensitivity.|
|Trichloroacetic acid(TCA)||Penetrates into the skin deeper from the fruit acids. The principle of action - coagulation proteins.||For the medio of the TCA peel.|
Fruit AHA-acids, water, and BHA is fat-soluble. This fundamental difference determines the use of acids in cosmetics. The best known BHA salicylic acid is - penetrate the lipid barrier deep within the pores, so it can affect the sebaceous glands and reduce their excessive activity. Its main objective is the treatment of acne and blackheads, rejuvenate oily and problematic skin. AHA is more suitable for the care of the skin, in photodamage, age spots, age hyperkeratosis and dryness. Polyacids RNA are assigned with sensitive skin, stress, low local immunity.
Glycolic acid in cosmetics
Glycolic acid in cosmetics is the most effective and therefore the most researched of all AHA-acids. Significant popularity it has gained after it proved its ability to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. An additional advantage of glycolic acid is a relatively cheap production from sugar cane. Dermatologists Medical University, Wakayama (Japan) have proven the effectiveness of high concentrations of this substance in the treatment of a severe form of acne. Glycolic acid in cosmetics also successfully applied for the improvement of the level of moisture in all layers of the skin.
E. I. hernández, in his book "Cosmetic peel" refers to a large number of reliable studies in cosmetology, who spoke about the application of glycolic acid, depending on concentration:
- Everyday care use cream with 5% glycolic acid for three months improves the condition of facial skin. The effects were statistically confirmed in the more types of control measurements.
- The content of hyaluronic acid in the matrix was increased after the treatment of the skin 20% glycolic acid twice a day for three months. Also, the recorded gene expression of collagen, which shows an increase of its synthesis.
- The thickness of the skin when applying her lotion with a content of 25% glycolic acid in six months increases 25 percent. The researchers observed an increase of the layer of the epidermis, increased concentration of mucopolysaccharides, improve the density of collagen and the condition of the elastin in the dermis.
- A weekly application of 50% glycolic acid for four weeks significantly improves the quality of skin structure. Increases decreases the Horny and granular layer of the epidermis, it will disappear symptoms of porokeratosis. In some cases, a biopsy of the recorded compaction of the collagen in the dermis.
Lactic acid in cosmetics
The second place of popularity and knowledge in cosmetology is lactic acid. Also, as glycol, this substance has a good exfoliating effect and helps to eliminate the signs of Chrono - and photoaging. The effectiveness of lactic acid a little bit less, but the risk of irritation from its use below.
Lactic acid is considered to be more physiological for skin. Its molecules one atom more molecules of glycolic acid, so they are slower and more evenly penetrate the epidermis and destroy the intercellular connections. Create a lactic acid environment prevents the growth of pathogenic bacteria, increases the lipid mantle and enhances the immunity of the skin. These properties together with less aggression, justify the use of lactic acid in cosmetics-for patients with sensitive problematic skin. Its concentration in the media of home care ranges from 3.5 to 10 percent.
Amber acid in cosmetics
Amber acid in cosmetics is called life-giving elixir for aging skin. It brightens up the excess pigment, nourishes and smoothes the skin. Succinic acid - a powerful catalyst for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) plays an important role in cell metabolism. Because of these properties of amber acid in cosmetics is involved in many anti-aging programs, home care for aging skin. Is the source of vitality of the hair.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics
Lipoic acid in cosmetics is not an exfoliant. It is recognized as a powerful antioxidant, suppresses the activity of a wide range of free radicals are important causes of skin aging, the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentations. High efficiency of lipoic acid, because of its ability to dissolve in water and lipid environment, which differs from many other antioxidants, especially vitamins C and E. At the same time, it does not block their action, and strengthens the.
Lipoic acid (vitamin N) slowing down the process of glycation, in which the connection of the collagen fibers with the molecules of glucose and reduces the activity of the elastin. She constantly sugar accelerates the metabolism and slows down the deformation of the skin. With early treatment from a beautician and regular use of funds with lipoic acid is observed, the reversibility of the process of glycation and reducing the signs of aging.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics also successfully applied in the treatment of scars, acne, post-acne and rosacea consequences. It normalizes the activity of sebaceous glands and reduces the intensity of skin pores and restores the cell membranes and protects DNA from the aggressions of external environment.
Salicylic acid in cosmetics
A powerful exfoliation - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This is the most common BHA acid, capable of dissolving the connection between the Cornea cells, even in the depths of the pores, i.e. to destroy blackheads. In parallel, it is as a derivative of aspirin reduces the inflammation, reduces the infectious processes and accelerates the treatment. The combination of antibacterial properties and the effect of a deep cleaning determine the application of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with oily skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for home use should not exceed two per cent.
The use of acids in cosmetics
The first acid in the salon of cosmetology are used in the form peelings.
1. Exfoliation and superficial peels AHA-acids
The connection of hyperkeratosis with a lot of skin diseases have been proven in the 80-ies of the last century the first scientific research of the AHA. Removing old stratum corneum acids are considered to be the most secure procedure. The choice of the concentration of the alpha-hydroacids do not cause burns on the skin and gently destroys the desmosomes - strong intercellular connections of the dead skin cells.
Later it was proven AHA-acids to penetrate deeper than the stratum corneum and stimulate processes in the skin. However, due to the breakdown of the tight couplings arise microcirculatory channel, through which the deeper layers of the skin easier to penetrate other active substances, which are applied at the final stage of the procedure.
The peeling effect and the depth of penetration of the acid depends on the concentration and pH:
- a small 5-10%, pH 2-3;the
- the average is about 20-30%, a pH value of 2-3;
- high - 50-70%, pH 4-5.
Small acid concentration allowed for home use, secondary and higher level are treated as drugs, and nominated only by the doctor-cosmetologist of the relevant data and is used for professional treatments in the clinic or beauty salon.
Positive changes from the peeling AHA acids do not happen overnight. For noticeable effect, requires 6-10 treatments every 7-14 days. However, as a result of the course, the skin manages fully updated without difficult recovery, peeling and serious post-gluma risks.
2. Peels BHA
Peels with salicylic acid are widely used for the treatment of acne, scars and acne scars, smoothing the skin relief. This acid is included in the compositions of the powerful anti-aging peels, in some cases, that are used as a channel for retinoic. Salicylic peels - a real salvation of the people with 4 and 5 phototypes of skin. Act as mild an exfoliant, it does not cause post-gluma complications in dark skin people.
3. Medial peels acids
The mechanism of action of hydroacids do not allow to penetrate into the middle layer of the epidermis even when the concentration. Therefore, for a deeper renewal of the skin and other types of acids. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) coagulates protein, and causes a controlled chemical burn. In recovery there is an active regeneration and an increase in the number of cells in the epidermis and dermis. Pure retinoic acid - a derivative of vitamin A - in the process of peeling associated with fibroblasts, increases its activity and thus enhances the synthesis of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Cosmetics with acids
Low concentrations of acids are included in complexes, professional esthetic care, and cosmetics for the home. Regular use of such tools are more soft, but stable result.
Fatty acids thanks to the nutritional properties are the most common cause of heavy creams. Amino acids are components of proteins - important for the production of the active components of the dermal matrix and is suitable for all skin types. Mild forms of retinoid acid-containing creams and serums for rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids are useful at any age and are involved in the formulation of creams, tonics and serums. Salicylic acid is often found in cosmetics for teenagers, oily and problematic skin.
Regular exfoliation after 40 - a necessary condition for aged care. A prerequisite for the use of drugs with hydroacids - protection from solar radiation, so a lot of them contain UV filters.
The funds even with low acid content, it is advisable to use under medical supervision. Get them easier from the beautician, who is a program aesthetic correction. Many professional medications can be used in the salon and at home, so that you can control the flow of acids into the skin easier.